Stargazing at Sarara – a soul journey
Few things compare to grounded freedom of being immersed in vast, open night skies. Humans, after all, have an ancient connection with the infinite wonders of the cosmos.
With the Milky Way no longer visible in most cities, and light pollution reportedly increasing as much as 10% per year, there’s an ever-growing yearning for places where the heavens are still blanketed in the beauty of stars, planets and galaxies.
As a treasured guest activity at our ecolodges and camps, stargazing allows time to stand still as you appreciate the immensity of the universe in full.
Due to Sarara’s remote location – far from urban lights and development – Africa’s famously clear night skies are even more amplified with breathtaking brightness and visibility. Here, you’ll also be welcomed into age-old Samburu legends that connect the the past with the present. and the worlds above and below.
According to Indigenous lore, the universe not only provides guidance, it is also where all of creation began. It's believed that the Samburu and Maasai – who were originally one people – came from Venus and that N’gai (God) built a ladder and invited them to a new planet, Nkop (the Earth). Signifying wealth, the vividly clear Milky Way represents N’gai’s plentiful cattle in the sky.
GUIDING LIGHT
“To us, stars are not just distant lights, they are teachers, guides, and storytellers,” says Tilas Lekango – Lodge Manager at Reteti House, and one of Samburu’s most beloved stargazing guides.
Herding livestock in these wild open landscapes as a young boy, he says his father was his greatest mentor, who taught him the names of the stars and their meanings in Samburu culture.
Remembering how he came home one school holiday and found that his entire village had moved, Tilas says: “That night, I slept alone in the bush. The sky became my shelter, and the stars became my companions.”
Observing the constellations and celestial events ever since, Tilas today loves to immerse guests in the wisdom whispered by the planets and stars. “One of my favourite celestial bodies is Mars. We call it Loiba Lpayani, which means ‘the star that doesn’t like lazy men’. In our culture, survival – especially in the dry seasons – requires hard work and resilience. Laziness is not entertained. Mars reminds me to keep pushing forward, no matter what. Just like our ancestors did.”
Tilas’ lifelong devotion to astronomy is not only revered by fellow experts, but also inspires newcomers to the wonders of the celestial world.* From identifying the brightest objects and the easiest constellations to recognise, he moves on to the significance of the Southern Cross in navigation. He also shares how Samburu Elders interpret the Milky Way’s shapes and paths as rivers and camels, and points out lesser-known planets and constellations in Namunyak’s skies, and how their role in local myths and stories might surprise even the most seasoned stargazers.
Keeping in touch long after they leave, Tilas and his fellow celestial travellers share images of the same night skies from all over – erasing the distance while connecting the dots. And it’s when he casts his gaze upwards at night that he feels closest to friends and cherished connections worldwide.
“I love looking at the stars because we’re all looking at the same ones, wherever we are.”
– Tilas Lekango
ANCIENT CONNECTION
As the crimson hues of the setting sun make way for the darkening night, countless stars start to light up the canvas above.
Surrounded by just the sounds of the bush, and with the warmth of the earth settling on your skin, it’s a short walk from your lodge or camp to the best vantage points for stargazing.
Tilas’s voice is steady and calm as he leads you over the hill, stopping every once in a while to point his laser beam upward – while sharing stories from his ancestors that keep making this vast universe come to life.
As pastoral nomads, the Samburu have always looked to the sky to trace their stories, their history, and their place in the world. Following in Tilas’ footsteps, the stars look on as you soon trace yours too.
Stargazing at Sarara
NEED TO KNOW
・Whether you’re an astronomy enthusiast or new to stargazing, Sarara’s night-time experiences can be tailored to appeal to your level of interest and knowledge.
・Full moons add a unique perspective to stargazing experiences – illuminating the vastness of this landscape. However, Tilas says the best time for stargazing here is during the new moon or in the last days of the lunar cycle, when the skies are darkest and the stars are at their brightest.
・We mostly use simple tools like a laser pointer to trace constellations in the sky, and star guidebooks to explain their positions and meanings. “Our greatest tools are our eyes, our stories, and the open Samburu skies themselves,” says Tilas.
“Our elevation, clear atmosphere, and remoteness from city lights make stargazing at Sarara truly spectacular. The stars feel closer, more vivid, and more alive. There’s a spiritual purity to the experience that’s hard to find elsewhere.”
– Tilas Lekango
Photos by Stevie Mann, Thige Njuguna, and Simon Pocock